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By camels through the desert

Trucks, GAS-69 and GAS-66, wait for us on the outskirts of Yangikazgan village, they will make for the desert with a stock of petrol and barrels of water. Not far from our place of departure, a majestic view unfolds before our eyes: sand dunes slightly covered with thorn bushes, the great and famous Central Asian Kyzylkum Desert. No springs can be found in these severe and remote places and only in early spring, thanks to the life-giving rains, does the desert cover itself with an emerald carpet of grass and purple poppies. These colours will sadly fade quickly.

The road go deep into the desert. The Hudoybergan Shaltiyev's camel farm is on the way. If one tries to go farther by car it will get stuck in the sand, the camel is the only suitable form of transport - "The ship of the desert".

By camels through the desert

Hudoybergan-aka greets his guests with a broad smile on his face, his whole family beside him. After exchanging greetings the hospitable hostesses sever large cups of kumis, a special beverage made of fermented camel`s milk. The crisp air and the bracing kumis helps to regain one`s strength and soon the visitors begin to admire the young camels frisking in the paddock . Everyone takes photo`s of the cute, fluffy animals.

The Karakalpak guides in their shaggy caps and bekasam overcoats wait for us, holding the camels by the reins. Tightly drawing the reins, the guides make these strong proud animals kneel. The riders in their linen suits and helmets sit on the saddles in the front and lead our caravan into the heart of the desert along a nallow path. A bell around the neck of the first camel rings monotonously, only the yellow-grey sand dunes and thorn bushes surround us. It seems as if time has stood still for the group of European tourists who have immersed them-selves in the distant past. The travellers are awe struck with the new impressions, they try to drive the camels themselves, they take photos of the landscape around them. Many hours pass. The sun begins to set. All living creatures have hidden in the sparse shadows. At last the well which had been our first destination appears in the distance. It is only in a desert where one can understand that water is priceless.

After thanking the hospitable shepherds, the tourists continue their journey. The caravan - bashi warns the group that Usen is the last well of drinking water on the way to the north, it would take several hours to get to the gorge where the group would stop for the night. The guests hurry and the caravan once again sets off into the sandy hills. Sometimes one can see only the camel`s heads as if they are swimming in sandy waves. English, French and Uzbek conversations trail through the quiet evening air.

A beautiful gorge covered with Karakalpak yurts unfolds beyond the next ridge. The camel quicken their pace as if they know there are homes nearby. The group is welcomed by Iskander Sarimov, one of the people living in the settlement. The water for evening tea is boiling. How pleasant it is to lie down on soft blankets near a warm, crackling campfire. The sparks of the fire and the incomprehensible, but very exciting words of an ancient Karakalpak song sung by our enthusiastic host drifts up into the starlit Asian sky.

By camels through the desert

The fried meat, shurpa (soup), flat cakes and vegetables have an exotic taste. After enjoying various local wines the group once again agrees to some kumis on the host`s insistence - heads become lighter and lighter. Until late into the night songs are sung are stories are told about life in the desert, local legends are shared. It seems that the stars are low, just above our heads. What a magic, unforgettable night!

Early morning arrives with the voice of Karakul sheeps in the nearby pasture. The sun rises over a glade of brightly coloured flowers which everyone picks as a keepsake.

There is an interesting road ahead: our itinerary takes us on to the Aydarkul Lake.

All Tourist Gems of Uzbekistan